Turtle Tank Guide

The smallest tank size we recommend for a single Stinkpot Turtle is a 20-gallon long (30/40 gallon breeder if keeping two). Keep in mind that horizontal space is more important than vertical space. The cost of equipment needed for turtle tanks will not be steep. Turtles are easy to keep and fun to watch, but you must be on top of things when it comes to maintenance. Below, we will go over what equipments are needed and how to keep them as enjoyable pets!

1) 20-Gallon long Tank

You can get a 20-gallon long (single mud/musk turtle) or 40-gallon breeder tank (two mud/musk turtles) during Petco's dollar-per-gallon sale. Do not use a glass top for turtles as it will disturb the necessary light sources needed for the turtles. You can get a 20-gallon for about $20.

The minimum tank size for a slider turtle, such as the red-eared slider, depends on the turtle's size and age. However, a general guideline for the tank size is a minimum of 75 gallons for a single adult red-eared slider.
- When the turtle is a hatchling or juvenile, you can start with a smaller tank (20-30 gallons) and gradually upgrade the tank size as the turtle grows.
- As the turtle grows, you will need to increase the tank size. For adult red-eared sliders, a tank size of 75 gallons or larger is recommended. Some sources suggest an even larger tank, such as 100-125 gallons, to provide ample swimming space and a more enriching environment.

Be mindful of the temperature spike as glass tops will increase your water temperature. Rimless tanks are a good option. The more well-known brands like Waterbox, UNS, RedSea, Fluval, Lifegard, JBJ, Mr.Aqua, Innovative Marine, etc. are great choices as well.

NOTE: The general rule of thumb is 10 gallons of water per inch of turtle, but remember that this is just a general rule and doesn't apply to all situations.

2) Substrate

When it comes to substrates for turtles, we recommend CaribSea Super Naturals Premium Crystal River Aquarium Substrate (50lbs), which can be purchased for about $44 at PetSmart.

There are also options of going bare bottom or gravel, but small gravels cause compaction so we only recommend bigger-sized gravels.

People also use play sand from Home Depot, but personally, we don't believe in adding any foreign contaminants into our aquariums. We leave that to the individual but with caution.

3) Decorations & Basking Area

Stones that release calcium carbonate which alter the hardness or pH of water do not affect the health of the turtle so using Seiryu Stones is not an issue. Seiryu stones higher the pH (very little), but of course, this varies with the amount you put in. However, lower pH (6.0 and below) does affect the turtle's health. You can use inert stones like slate as well. Key here is to provide ample amount of hiding spots for your turtles.

NOTE 1: You can also use inert stones such as lava stones, shale, manten stones, and maple leaf rock.
NOTE 2: Acid tests are done to see if the stones fizz, when a reaction occurs then the stones will affect your pH.

Include a basking area with a heat lamp. Stinkpot Turtles need access to a basking spot to regulate their body temperature. You can purchase a Zilla Reptile Basking Platform with Ramp for $13-$38 (depending on size) or a Zoo Med Turtle Floating Dock for $17-$35 (also depending on size), but we like to get creative and use driftwood with stones to make the turtle's basking area. We're currently using large Malaysian driftwood and Mopani for our setups.

NOTE: Start the light at about 10-inch distance. From there, use a digital thermometer probe to make sure the basking area is around 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

4) Plants

For stinkpot turtles, we do not recommend any plants other than hornwort. We have tried to put various plants with very little success. Stinkpots are scavengers that are opportunistic eaters so they will tear apart any aquatic plant they can. We've tried to even emerse some plants to no avail. We only recommend plants if you have many fish tanks where you can spare plants as a nice snack for them.

NOTE: Hornworts are the only plants that outgrew how much was lost, but they are messy when torn apart by turtles.

5) Filters & Water Parameters

Our personal choice for turtle tank filters is the AquaClear 50 by Hagen. While we have many external canister filters lying around, the hang-on back filter works best as they are easy to clean and maintain. If you're okay with opening up the canister filters often then go for it. Aquaclear 50 costs about $40-$60 dollars at Petco.

Stinkpot Turtles spend a significant amount of time in the water, so maintain a clean and well-filtered aquatic environment.

NOTE: Regular water changes are essential. Replace about 25-50% of the water every two weeks (Recommended minimum). We do about 30% weekly water changes (50% if water seems really dirty). Thorough monthly cleaning is also highly recommended.

6) Water Depth

Provide a water depth of at least twice the turtle's shell length.

Ensure that there are shallower areas and basking platform to allow the turtle to come out of the water and dry off

NOTE: We only fill about half the tank, just enough that the turtles can extend their necks to breathe. Remember that the stinkpots are weak swimmers, and they are found in shallow calm waters in the wild.

Supplemental Light

Current USA Satellite Aquarium LED Light 36"

Essential Lights

Aquatic Turtle UVB & Heat Light

Supplemental Light

Current USA Satellite Aquarium LED Light 36"

1/2

7) Lights (UVB & Heat Lamp + Supplemental Lighting)

Turtles need UVB for optimal vitamin D3 levels to utilize calcium to maintain their growth. While stinkpots may look like they don't sunbathe, prolonged periods without UVB will heavily affect your stinkpot's health. To avoid the hassle of picking which light to buy, we recommend getting ZooMed's Aquatic Turtle UVB & Heat Lighting Kit with some extra bulbs as backup. These lights cost about $50 at Petsmart or on Chewy and Amazon.
- Common recommendation for red-eared slider turtles and other aquatic turtles is to provide a UVB bulb with a percentage around 5-10%
- In general, a UVB bulb with a percentage in the range of 2-5% should be suitable for stinkpot turtles.

NOTE 1: You need supplementing lighting for your turtle tank. Any light will work. Above, we have the Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Light.
NOTE 3: Leave the lights on for 8 to 10 hours a day. Using a timer is recommended.

8) Heater & Temperature Sensor

Inkbird Aquarium Heating and Cooling Dual Stage Temperature Controller (ITC-308S) is our number one choice. We also recommend the Eheim Jager (100w) Heater which is rated for up to 40 gallons. Even though you will most likely fill only half the tank, going above the rated recommendation will have less stress on the heater, especially if you live in a colder region.

NOTE 1: The water temperature for most turtles should be maintained between 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 29 degrees Celsius).
NOTE 2: Providing a temperature gradient within the water allows turtles to choose the temperature they prefer.

9) Surge Protector / Timer

You can use timed outlets to control your lights. While we did use the ZooMed brand for our lights, the failure rate of these timers is high. Any outlet with a timer function will do which you can get at Lowe's or on Amazon for about $22.

10) Circulation Pump

To prevent stale water from forming in your turtle tank, adding a circulation pump is highly recommended. You don't need anything strong. We purchased Coralife BioCube Circulation Pump (250gph) for our 36"x15"x12" tank. Just make sure the pump isn't too strong to create sand dunes.

11) Dechlorinator

Water that goes into the turtle tank needs to be dechlorinated before adding turtles. Chlorine can be harmful to their eyes so purchase AquaSafe Water Conditioner by Tetra Fauna to dechlorinate your tap water. API also makes water conditioners specifically for turtles.

12) Food & Supplements

Both Mud/Musk and Slider Turtles are omnivores. Providing a varied diet for your turtles is essential. An all-around nutritious food such as ReptoMin Floating Food Sticks or Coci Zoo Med Natural Aquatic Turtle Food provide much of the calcium, vitamin C, and protein needed for your turtles.

Fluker's make freeze-dried foods as an alternative to live meal worms or live shrimps. You can also try earthworms, insects such as crickets, waxworms, etc.

Offering fresh vegetables of leafy greens (kale, collard greens, etc.), squash, zucchini, and fruits such as berries, apples, bananas could also be an option but should not be the primary food source. Pay attention to what your turtle enjoys and adjust its diet accordingly.

NOTE1: As for the amount of food you have to feed your turtles, feed them the amount of food that could fit inside their heads (not including the neck). The size of their head is a good indicator of how big their stomach is and how much should be fed. Avoid overfeeding, as it can lead to obesity and other health issues.
NOTE2: Calcium Supplements: Dust the food with a reptile calcium supplement regularly to ensure your turtle gets enough calcium for proper shell and bone development.

13) Picking Your Turtles

When picking your turtles, order from a reputable seller/breeder. Please make sure not to order two males as they will get aggressive when they reach sexual maturity. Well-known sellers will sell turtles by their specified genders. Turtles are not like humans, and they won't get lonely just because they are by themselves. If you want to keep two females, you can keep two females like we are. Even though our turtles are named Chloe and Bucket Silly, these names were given to them by our children.

14) Others

We keep sulfa blocks, made by ReptoGuard, just in case. Sulfa blocks help to prevent common bacterial and fungal diseases for your turtles.

NOTE: Be attentive to signs of illness or distress, such as changes in appetite, lethargy, or abnormal behavior. Always do thorough research and consider consulting with a reptile veterinarian for specific recommendation based on the individual needs of your Stinkpot Turtle.